Moonlight Over the Cobbles: A Rare Glimpse into Historic Clovelly

 There is a specific kind of magic found in the tactile nature of a vintage postcard. For years, I have carefully curated a collection of these "snapshots in time," but few capture the atmospheric soul of a place quite like this sepia-toned gem of High Street, Clovelly.

This isn't just a piece of cardstock; it is a portal to the Devon coast as it existed over a century ago. Captured by the renowned artist Elmer Keene and published as part of the "Chic" Series by Charles Worcester & Co. of Bristol, this postcard is a masterclass in Edwardian-era romanticism.

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High Street, Clovelly, Devon  Elmer Keene

The Artistry of Elmer Keene

When you look at the front of this postcard, you aren’t looking at a simple photograph. Elmer Keene (1853–1929) was a prolific artist famous for his "moonlight" scenes. He had a unique talent for taking a landscape and infusing it with drama through the use of light and shadow.

In this depiction of Clovelly’s famous High Street, Keene uses a full, hazy moon to illuminate the steep, pebbled path. The light reflects off the wet stones—perhaps after a coastal evening mist—creating a leaden glow that guides the eye up the hill. The inclusion of figures and donkeys adds a layer of "living history." In the early 20th century, donkeys were the primary "engines" of Clovelly, used to haul goods, luggage, and even tourists up the 400-foot climb from the harbour. Seeing them pictured here reminds us of the village's legendary refusal to submit to the motorized age.

A Walk Up the High Street

The composition of the card is striking. On the left, we see the recognizable facade of the New Inn, its sign hanging proudly over the narrow street. The New Inn remains a landmark in Clovelly today, and seeing it here—rendered in Keene’s signature sepia style—bridges the gap between the modern traveller and the Victorian wanderer.

The steepness of the street is palpable. Clovelly is famous for its "Up-a-long" and "Down-a-long" geography. As you look at the figures trudging upward, you can almost hear the rhythmic click of donkey hooves against the "cobbles" (which are actually smooth boulders gathered from the beach below).

The Reverse: A Collector’s Story

Turning the postcard over reveals the clean, unused "Back" of the card. For a collector, an unposted card is a bit of a double-edged sword. While we lose the historical context of a handwritten message or a dated postmark, we gain a pristine look at the typography and branding of the era.

The "Chic" Series logo and the attribution to Charles Worcester & Co., Bristol, help us date the piece. Worcester & Co. were prominent printers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The "divided back" (with separate sections for correspondence and address) tells us this card was likely printed after 1902, when the British Post Office first allowed messages to be written on the same side as the address. Before then, the back was for the address only, forcing people to scrawl their notes across the front of the image!

Why Clovelly Endures

Clovelly is a private village, a fact that has largely preserved its timeless quality. Because it is still owned by a single estate, the village has avoided the neon signs and architectural sprawl that have affected other seaside towns.

When I hold this postcard in my hand, I am struck by how little has changed. If you stood in this exact spot on High Street tonight, the silhouette of the New Inn and the steep incline toward the horizon would look remarkably similar to Elmer Keene’s vision.

Collecting these cards is about more than just owning paper; it’s about preserving the "mood" of history. This postcard doesn't just show us what Clovelly looked like; it shows us how Clovelly felt—mysterious, hardworking, and deeply beautiful.

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Collectors’ Tips: Identifying Elmer Keene Postcards

If you are looking to add Keene’s work to your own collection, keep an eye out for these hallmarks:

1. The Signature: Almost all his works feature "ELMER KEENE" in the bottom corner in block capitals.

2. The Lighting: Look for the "Nocturne" style—high-contrast moonlight and reflections on water or wet streets.

3. The Subject Matter: He frequently painted British coastal scenes, particularly in Devon, Cornwall, and Yorkshire.

Final Thoughts

This piece remains a highlight of my collection. It serves as a reminder that even in our fast-paced, digital world, there is immense value in the slow, the steep, and the moonlit.

The Haunted Beauty of St John’s in the Wilderness: A Postcard Journey to Old Exmouth

 There is a specific kind of magic found in the quiet corners of the English countryside—places where stone, ivy, and history intertwine so tightly that it becomes difficult to tell where man’s work ends and nature’s begins. One such place is the Parish Church of St John in the Wilderness, located just outside Exmouth in Devon.

Today, I’m sharing a beautiful piece from my personal vintage postcard collection. This hand-tinted gem offers a window into the past, capturing the "Wilderness" church in an era of romantic decay and serene isolation.

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Dating the Card: A Glimpse into the Edwardian Era

When collecting vintage postcards, half the fun is playing detective to determine when the image was produced and mailed. While this specific card hasn't been postmarked, several physical clues allow us to pin down its origin with reasonable certainty.

Look closely at the back of the card. It features a "Divided Back," with a vertical line separating the message area from the address. In Great Britain, the Post Office only permitted divided backs starting in 1902. Before this, the entire back was reserved for the address, and any message had to be scribbled on the front around the image.

The typography of "POSTCARD – GREAT BRITAIN & IRELAND" and the specific "Stamp" box design suggest a production date between 1905 and 1915. This was the "Golden Age" of postcards. The hand-tinted colouring on the front—where soft greens and muted reds are layered over a monochrome photograph—is a hallmark of this period, aiming to give the viewer a "technicolour" experience before colour photography was commercially viable.

The Story of St John’s in the Wilderness

The church pictured is officially the Parish Church of St John the Baptist, Withycombe Raleigh, but its evocative nickname, "St John’s in the Wilderness," has been in use for centuries.

The site has been a place of worship since at least the 10th century, but the tower you see in the postcard dates back to the 15th century. By the mid-1700s, the main body of the church had fallen into a state of extreme disrepair. In a move that seems unthinkable today, much of the nave was demolished in 1778, leaving the tower and a small portion of the north aisle standing as a lonely ruin in the middle of the churchyard.

For over a hundred years, it remained in the state seen in this postcard: a romantic, ivy-clad skeleton of a building. It wasn't until the late 19th and early 20th centuries—right around the time this postcard was printed—that restoration work began to bring the church back to life for regular services.

Analyzing the Image: Ivy, Stone, and Silence

The front of the postcard captures the church from the southwest, highlighting the imposing square tower. The "Wilderness" aspect of its name is on full display here.

• The Ivy: The sheer volume of ivy clinging to the tower is breathtaking. In the early 1900s, this "picturesque decay" was highly fashionable. Today, we know that such heavy vegetation can damage ancient stonework, and modern conservationists have since cleared much of it away to preserve the structure.

• The Churchyard: The foreground is dotted with weathered headstones. This churchyard is the final resting place of several notable figures, most famously Lady Byron, the wife of the poet Lord Byron, and Francis Danby, the renowned Irish Romantic painter.

• The Atmosphere: The hand-tinting adds a dreamlike quality. The sky is a pale, washed-out blue, and the grass is a vibrant, impossible green. It evokes a sense of Victorian nostalgia—a longing for a rural England that was already beginning to change with the advent of the motorcar and modern industry.

Why We Collect: The Power of the Postcard

Collecting cards like this isn't just about the cardboard; it's about holding a moment of time in your hands. This postcard was likely sold as a souvenir to a holidaymaker visiting the Devon coast. Exmouth was a burgeoning seaside resort, and a trip out to the "Wilderness" church would have been a popular excursion by carriage or on foot.

When I look at this card, I think of the person who might have bought it. Perhaps they stood in that very churchyard, listening to the same wind through the trees, before heading back to the seafront to write home about their travels.

Visiting St John’s Today

If you visit Exmouth today, you can still stand where this photographer stood. While the "Wilderness" is perhaps a bit less wild now—the church has been beautifully restored and is once again a centre of parish life—the 15th-century tower remains a steadfast sentinel. The ivy is gone, revealing the intricate stonework, but the sense of peace remains.