There is a specific kind of magic found in holding a piece of history in your hands. As a collector, few things rival the tactile experience of a "Vera Fotografia" postcard—an actual silver halide photograph printed onto cardstock rather than a mass-produced lithograph.
Today, I’m diving into a stunning acquisition from my collection: a sepia-toned view of the Teatro Greco in Siracusa (Syracuse), Sicily. This isn't just a souvenir; it is a time capsule that captures the intersection of ancient engineering and early 20th-century archaeology.
Dating the Artifact: A Clue in the Ink
One of the most frequent questions I get is, "How do you date an unused postcard?" While there is no postmark to provide a definitive day of mailing, the reverse of this card (the "verso") contains a wealth of forensic data.
Looking closely at the circular logo for Fotocelere Torino, we see the name of the publisher: A. Campassi. Crucially, the text around the rim includes the date 1936-XIV.
The "XIV" refers to the fourteenth year of the Era Fascista (Fascist Era), a dating system used in Italy during the regime of Benito Mussolini, which began counting from the March on Rome in 1922. This places the production of this card precisely in 1936. This was a pivotal time for Italian archaeology, as the government heavily invested in the restoration and promotion of classical sites to link modern Italy with the grandeur of the Roman and Greek past.
The View: "Il Koilon Visto dall'Alto"
The front of the card features a breathtaking high-angle view of the theatre, captioned: “Siracusa – Teatro Greco – Il Koilon Visto dall’Alto” (The Koilon seen from above).
The Koilon (or Cavea) refers to the semi-circular seating area. What makes this 1936 image so striking is the raw, weathered state of the stone. Unlike the pristine, reconstructed versions of ancient sites we often see in modern travel brochures, this photograph shows the theatre as it sat for centuries—carved directly into the white limestone of Temenite Hill.
In the background, you can see the sparse development of Syracuse before the post-war building boom. The small structure perched on the hill to the left is the Casetta dei Mugnai (The Miller's House), a historic building that stood above the theatre, reminding us that for centuries, this site wasn't just a monument; it was a functioning part of the landscape where water mills once harnessed the power of the ancient Galermi Aqueduct.
A Brief History of the Teatro Greco
The theatre pictured here is one of the largest and most significant in the Hellenic world. Its history is a masterclass in architectural evolution:
The Greek Origins (5th Century BC): The first theatre was built here under the tyrant Gelon. It was where the famous playwright Aeschylus premiered his plays, including The Persians.
The Roman Redesign: When the Romans took control of Sicily, they modified the Greek structure. They adapted it for gladiatorial games and circus acts, which required removing some of the lower seating tiers to create a high protective wall around the orchestra.
The Renaissance Strip-Mining: Sadly, in the 1500s, Emperor Charles V used the theatre as a stone quarry. The high-quality limestone blocks were hauled away to build the fortifications of Ortygia, which explains why the upper tiers of the theatre look more like a natural rock formation today than a finished building.
Why "Vera Fotografia" Matters
Collectors prize the "Vera Fotografia" (Real Photo) label seen at the bottom of the card. Unlike standard printed postcards that use tiny dots (halftone) to create an image, this is a real photograph developed from a negative.
When you look at this card under a magnifying glass, the detail is incredible. You can see the individual cracks in the limestone and the texture of the vegetation encroaching on the ruins. The sepia tone isn't just an aesthetic choice; it’s a result of the chemical stabilization of the silver during the printing process in the 1930s, designed to prevent fading.
Visiting Syracuse Today
If you were to stand in this exact spot today, much has changed. The site is now the centerpiece of the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis. While the "Casetta dei Mugnai" still stands, the surrounding area is lush with Mediterranean flora and far more managed for the thousands of tourists who flock to see the annual performances of Greek tragedies that still take place here every summer.
There is something hauntingly beautiful about this 1936 view. It feels quieter, lonelier, and perhaps more connected to the ghosts of the ancient actors who once stood in that semi-circular orchestra.
Final Thoughts
Postcards like these are more than just paper; they are "paper memories." They document not just the landmark, but the way we viewed the landmark at a specific moment in time. This 1936 Campassi card is a testament to the enduring power of the Teatro Greco—a place that has survived tyrants, emperors, and the ravages of time to remain one of the most evocative spots on earth.
